GPS - It works! GPS powered by D200

Author

It works! GPS powered by D200

Cynicor

2006-07-26, 10:33 pm

It's still sort of kludgy, but I spliced a Garmin GPS18 LVC to a DB9,
plugged it into an MC-35, and powered it by splicing the 5v power line
from a sliced MC-23 into the power line of the GPS18. I plug the half
MC-23 into the 10-pin port of the MC-35 port, and it powers the device.

I then screwed the GPS18 into a BS-1 plastic shoe insert with an M3
screw, and it's ready to go.

Next step is to remove the MC-35 completely, and just wire the half
MC-23 directly to the GPS puck. When I do it now it gets power but no
GPS signal. There seems to be one wire I'm getting wrong. I took my
first GPS-marked photos with it tonight.

I'm going to write up the whole thing and post it on my blog when I get
a chance, but it can be done. I even taught myself how to tin wires!

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-27, 7:33 am

Cynicor

2006-07-27, 7:33 am

Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:
> Cynicor wrote:
>
>
> What's the current draw in milliamps of the Garmin? Two problems with
> having accessories powered by the D200 is the already dismal battery
> life and the fragile DC regulator board, which requires factory
> replacement if you pop it. Always power the accessories from their own
> supply.

It specs out at 60 mA @ 5.0v. (Rated for 4.0 to 5.5v.)

>
> Smart move isolating the PS.
>
>
> Just make sure you're not using acid core solder. A good 50/50 rosin
> core is the best, but that new fangled lead free stuff works great. I
> love the smell of the rosin.

Er...what type comes with the Radio Shack economy soldering gun?

I am a software guy! Only got one red-hot finger burn during the project.

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-27, 7:33 am

Cynicor wrote:

>
> It specs out at 60 mA @ 5.0v. (Rated for 4.0 to 5.5v.)

60mA really isn't bad. What is rated for, I'm assuming you are saying, 4A?
If that Garmin has any functions that would have a 4A peak I wouldn't let it
near my D200 if I couldn't use a separate power source.

> Er...what type comes with the Radio Shack economy soldering gun?

Probably lead free. You got the right stuff.

> I am a software guy! Only got one red-hot finger burn during the
> project.

Not bad! Welcome to the club. Oh, if you worry about not using the
soldering iron again you can use it to burn moles off of your neck. It
works better than liquid nitrogen.

Rita

Jack Erbes

2006-07-27, 3:33 pm

Cynicor wrote:
> It's still sort of kludgy, but I spliced a Garmin GPS18 LVC to a DB9,
> plugged it into an MC-35, and powered it by splicing the 5v power line
> from a sliced MC-23 into the power line of the GPS18. I plug the half
> MC-23 into the 10-pin port of the MC-35 port, and it powers the device.
>
> I then screwed the GPS18 into a BS-1 plastic shoe insert with an M3
> screw, and it's ready to go.
>
> Next step is to remove the MC-35 completely, and just wire the half
> MC-23 directly to the GPS puck. When I do it now it gets power but no
> GPS signal. There seems to be one wire I'm getting wrong. I took my
> first GPS-marked photos with it tonight.
>
> I'm going to write up the whole thing and post it on my blog when I get
> a chance, but it can be done. I even taught myself how to tin wires!

And someone will appreciate your documenting what you've learned.

Tinning wires before soldering is strong magic. Especially when you are
attaching them to small connectors.

Pick up a can of Oatey's lead free soldering paste in the plumbing
section of the hardware store. That is a rosin based flux and it
contains no acid or other corrosives. If you touch wires to that before
tinning or use a toothpick to put some on a connector soldering the heat
causes the rosin to flux and the solder flow and adheres much better.
One small can of that, like a shoe polish can, is a lifetime supply.
Never use acid core solder or acid based fluxes on electronic work,
things will corrode.

Sound like you might want to use some in line connectors for some of
your project. If you order a catalog from mouser.com you can spend many
happy hours looking for better ways with bits and pieces you never knew
existed.

We've had folks here mount antennas to their hats and backpacks for
hiking and mountain climbing.

Jack

--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA (jackerbes at adelphia dot net)
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine dot com)

Little Green Eyed Dragon

2006-07-27, 10:33 pm

In article < 12ch3guiisip52f@news
.supernews.com>,
Rita Ä Berkowitz <ritaberk2O04 @aol.com> wrote:

> I love the smell of the rosin.
> Rita

Yes I bet you do.

--
Would thou choose to meet a rat eating dragon, or
a dragon, eating rat? The answer of: I am somewhere
in the middle. "Me who is part taoist and part Christian".

Little Green Eyed Dragon

2006-07-27, 10:33 pm

In article < 12ch7e9juhge809@news
.supernews.com>,
Rita Ä Berkowitz <ritaberk2O04 @aol.com> wrote:

>
> Not bad! Welcome to the club. Oh, if you worry about not using the
> soldering iron again you can use it to burn moles off of your neck. It
> works better than liquid nitrogen.

> Rita

Yes that does wonders for the complexion I can just imagine.
So I guess you'll move into the warts next :^)

--
Would thou choose to meet a rat eating dragon, or
a dragon, eating rat? The answer of: I am somewhere
in the middle. "Me who is part taoist and part Christian".

DoN. Nichols

2006-07-27, 10:33 pm

According to Rita Ä Berkowitz <ritaberk2O04 @aol.com>:
> Cynicor wrote:

[ ... ]

>
> Just make sure you're not using acid core solder. A good 50/50 rosin core
> is the best, but that new fangled lead free stuff works great. I love the
> smell of the rosin.

Actually 62/48 or 63/47 rosin core solder is better. It is
closer to the eutectic mix, and tends to set up suddenly, instead of
passing through a mushy state on the way to hard. 60/40 is pretty good,
but 63/47 is better.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Bill

2006-07-27, 10:33 pm

DoN. Nichols wrote:

> Actually 62/48 or 63/47 rosin core solder is better. It is
>closer to the eutectic mix, and tends to set up suddenly, instead of
>passing through a mushy state on the way to hard. 60/40 is pretty good,
>but 63/47 is better.

Umm...isn't 63/47 equal to 110%?

How about 63/37?

:-)

DoN. Nichols

2006-07-27, 10:33 pm

According to Bill <bill@c.a>:
> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>
>
> Umm...isn't 63/47 equal to 110%?
>
> How about 63/37?
>
> :-)

You're right.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Bob

2006-07-28, 4:33 am

"Rita Ä Berkowitz" <ritaberk2O04 @aol.com> wrote in message
news:12ch3guiisip52f
@news.supernews.com...

>
> Just make sure you're not using acid core solder. A good 50/50 rosin core
> is the best, but that new fangled lead free stuff works great. I love the
> smell of the rosin.
>
> Rita
>

LOL.

I, too, love the smell of rosin -- especially in the morning.

However, having to deal with these RoHS lead-free issues is a real pain in
the XXX! I've eaten tons of lead and I feel fine -- except in the morning.

Bob

Mike Warren

2006-07-28, 4:33 am

Bob wrote:
> However, having to deal with these RoHS lead-free issues is a real
> pain in the XXX!

I feel your pain. %*&@# beurocrats.

-Mike

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-28, 4:33 am

DoN. Nichols wrote:

>
> Actually 62/48 or 63/47 rosin core solder is better. It is
> closer to the eutectic mix, and tends to set up suddenly, instead of
> passing through a mushy state on the way to hard. 60/40 is pretty
> good, but 63/47 is better.

Thanks. I meant to say 60/40, which is the most common type for
electronics. What's with a 63/47? It doesn't XXX up.

Rita

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-28, 4:33 am

Bob wrote:

> I, too, love the smell of rosin -- especially in the morning.

Did you ever figure out how Kester got five cores of it in their solder?
I'm still scratching my butt on that one.

Rita

Bob

2006-07-28, 10:33 am

"Rita Ä Berkowitz" <ritaberk2O04 @aol.com> wrote in message
news:12cjk8gk2chd70e
@news.supernews.com...
> Bob wrote:
>
>
> Did you ever figure out how Kester got five cores of it in their solder?
> I'm still scratching my butt on that one.
>
> Rita
>

It's the same technique that the Certs company uses to get two mints in one.

Bob

Bill

2006-07-28, 10:33 am

Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:

> What's with a 63/47? It doesn't XXX up.

Ahahahahaha....gotta love typos.

Bill

2006-07-28, 10:33 am

Bob wrote:

>
>However, having to deal with these RoHS lead-free issues is a real pain in
>the XXX! I've eaten tons of lead and I feel fine -- except in the morning.

I hate political correctness and go out of my way to be non-PC.

And my dad is the same. I laugh every time he mentions things like
lead-free paint because he didn't go around licking the walls when he
was a kid, so why would anyone else?

And I have a camera that is lead-free...I think. But either way I don't
usually lick it.

:-D

DoN. Nichols

2006-07-28, 3:33 pm

According to Rita Ä Berkowitz <ritaberk2O04 @aol.com>:
> Bob wrote:
>
>
> Did you ever figure out how Kester got five cores of it in their solder?
> I'm still scratching my butt on that one.

I don't know for sure -- but here are a couple of possible
scenarios:

====================
====================
====================
==========

1) Extrude the solder, much larger in size, with the five holes in
place.

2) Inject the rosin flux though the holes until it comes out the
other end.

3) Draw the solder in many passes, each draw reduces its diameter
and increases its length.

4) When it is finally small enough in diameter, wind it on a spool
and sell it.

====================
====================
====================
==========

1) Extrude the solder as before, but with five grooves in the
sides.

2) Inject the rosin flux into the grooves, and smooth over the
solder to close the open sides of the grooves.

3) Spool and sell as before.

I would love to know whether either of these is correct, or
whether it is actually something else.

Of course -- this does lead back to the question of how they got
the rosin into single-core solder before that -- and I would think that
the first version would be the most likely -- though they *could* have
rolled the solder out as a ribbon, then formed it to a groove, filled,
and rolled closed.

I distrust my second scenario in part because I've never seen
signs of it when manipulating solder. I would expect it to open up some
of the grooves when it is being bent sharply.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols

2006-07-28, 3:33 pm

According to Bill <bill@c.a>:
> Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:
>
>
> Ahahahahaha....gotta love typos.

Actually -- not a typo -- a "thinko". I start from the 60/40,
increment the 60 to 63, and wrongly adjust the 40 *up* instead of down
to the matching '7'. :-)

I don't know how many times I've made that same mistake over the
years. However, since I am not actually compounding the solder, just
using that produced by others, I guess that it does not matter.

50/50 solder has one advantage to the *maker* -- it is cheaper to
make. Tin costs more than lead.

And perhaps that plastic state between molten and fully set is
advantageous to those who use it (or used to use it) for automotive
bodywork. It is certainly bad news in electronics and electrical work. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Bill

2006-07-28, 3:33 pm

DoN. Nichols wrote:

>According to Bill <bill@c.a>:
>
> Actually -- not a typo -- a "thinko". I start from the 60/40,

I was referring to Ritas "XXX" up.

Ooo...that doesn't sound right either.

:-)

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-28, 10:33 pm

Bill wrote:

>
> Ahahahahaha....gotta love typos.

OOPs! Sorry, that wasn't intentional. I don't know how that happened.
Don's a cool old dude that is pretty sharp. His and a few other people's
opinion in this group I highly value.

Rita

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-28, 10:33 pm

DoN. Nichols wrote:

> Actually -- not a typo -- a "thinko". I start from the 60/40,
> increment the 60 to 63, and wrongly adjust the 40 *up* instead of down
> to the matching '7'. :-)

On a side note, I amassed a large collection of various types of solders
that were unintentional bought in lots I acquired. I have to start sorting
through it and see what has eBay value. I keep all 60/40 for me.

> I don't know how many times I've made that same mistake over the
> years. However, since I am not actually compounding the solder, just
> using that produced by others, I guess that it does not matter.
>
> 50/50 solder has one advantage to the *maker* -- it is cheaper to
> make. Tin costs more than lead.
>
> And perhaps that plastic state between molten and fully set is
> advantageous to those who use it (or used to use it) for automotive
> bodywork. It is certainly bad news in electronics and electrical
> work. :-)

Yep! You're right on the 50/50. I even got several cases of that new
fangled 95/5 lead free crap.

Rita

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-28, 10:33 pm

Bill wrote:

> I hate political correctness and go out of my way to be non-PC.
>
> And my dad is the same. I laugh every time he mentions things like
> lead-free paint because he didn't go around licking the walls when he
> was a kid, so why would anyone else?
>
> And I have a camera that is lead-free...I think. But either way I
> don't usually lick it.

Yeah, but you're forgetting about all the inner-city teething rings out
there. Those toddlers chewing on the windowsills don't help.

Rita

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2006-07-28, 10:33 pm

DoN. Nichols wrote:

> I don't know for sure -- but here are a couple of possible
> scenarios:
>
> ====================
====================
====================
==========
>
> 1) Extrude the solder, much larger in size, with the five holes in
> place.
>
> 2) Inject the rosin flux though the holes until it comes out the
> other end.
>
> 3) Draw the solder in many passes, each draw reduces its diameter
> and increases its length.
>
> 4) When it is finally small enough in diameter, wind it on a spool
> and sell it.
>
> ====================
====================
====================
==========
>
> 1) Extrude the solder as before, but with five grooves in the
> sides.
>
> 2) Inject the rosin flux into the grooves, and smooth over the
> solder to close the open sides of the grooves.
>
> 3) Spool and sell as before.
>
> I would love to know whether either of these is correct, or
> whether it is actually something else.
>
> Of course -- this does lead back to the question of how they got
> the rosin into single-core solder before that -- and I would think
> that the first version would be the most likely -- though they
> *could* have rolled the solder out as a ribbon, then formed it to a
> groove, filled, and rolled closed.
>
> I distrust my second scenario in part because I've never seen
> signs of it when manipulating solder. I would expect it to open up
> some of the grooves when it is being bent sharply.

Thanks Don. I have rolls of this "multi" core Kester solder that is hair
thin. I'll be damned if I can figure out how they do it. Your explanation
sounds reasonable.

Rita

DoN. Nichols

2006-07-28, 10:33 pm

According to Rita Ä Berkowitz <ritaberk2O04 @aol.com>:
> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>
>
> On a side note, I amassed a large collection of various types of solders
> that were unintentional bought in lots I acquired. I have to start sorting
> through it and see what has eBay value. I keep all 60/40 for me.

Good! I wonder how long before sales of lead bearing solder
will be declared illegal on eBay?

[ ... ]

>
> Yep! You're right on the 50/50. I even got several cases of that new
> fangled 95/5 lead free crap.

Ouch!

I'm holding onto my rolls of various gauge 60/40 or 63/37
solder for as long as I can make them last. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Bill

2006-07-29, 12:33 pm

Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:

>
>Yeah, but you're forgetting about all the inner-city teething rings out
>there. Those toddlers chewing on the windowsills don't help.

Anyone stupid enough to let their kids chew on window sills or any other
parts of the home shouldn't be allowed to procreate.

So I guess that's natures way of thinning the herd...?

I think we should put lead back into the paint!

:-)

Harry Krause

2006-07-29, 12:33 pm

Bill wrote:
> Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:
>
>
> Anyone stupid enough to let their kids chew on window sills or any other
> parts of the home shouldn't be allowed to procreate.
>
> So I guess that's natures way of thinning the herd...?
>
> I think we should put lead back into the paint!
>
> :-)

You find humor in a situation that causes illness and death among the
children of the poor?

For shame.

WC Calm

2006-07-29, 3:33 pm

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 12:56:42 -0400, Bill <bill@c.a> wrote:

>Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:
>
>
>Anyone stupid enough to let their kids chew on window sills or any other
>parts of the home shouldn't be allowed to procreate.
>
>So I guess that's natures way of thinning the herd...?
>
>I think we should put lead back into the paint!
>
>:-)

With a comment like that, you are hopelessly IGNORANT!
--

Wayne

"In the future Mr.Calm, you must up your shipments of sand to the sea!"

Bill

2006-07-29, 3:33 pm

Harry Krause wrote:

>
>You find humor in a situation that causes illness and death among the
>children of the poor?
>
>For shame.

Sheesh...I guess humour and intent is too easily lost in print.

I meant the parents should be licking the paint.

Joe Average

2006-07-30, 10:33 pm

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 12:56:42 -0400, Bill <bill@c.a> wrote:

>Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:
>
>
>Anyone stupid enough to let their kids chew on window sills or any other
>parts of the home shouldn't be allowed to procreate.
>

Yeah, you are certainly non-PC.

>So I guess that's natures way of thinning the herd...?

Do YOU have children? Have you been sterilized yet?

Vater Kodak

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